I really wanted to go and see Casa Colorada - or "The Red House" - since it is the namesake of the home in Wendover where my family has lived for sixty years! It was built 250 years ago and is a great, surviving, example of the urban colonial architecture. It also houses the Santiago Museum. But refurbishment was in full swing and I will just have to come back another day!
La Chascona was one of my favourite places. It was the home of Pablo Neruda and Mathilde, his last partner, and the name means "the woman with the tousled hair". Neruda loved the sea and you can see that everywhere in this incredibly personal and higgledy piggledy home
His sense of humour is reflected in the condiments. Instead of salt and pepper, you are offered "morphine and marijuana" 😊
Sheila recommended a book by Isabelle Allende - "The long petal of the sea" - which I read as we crossed the Pacific. It's a really great read and helped me get a sense of the 20th century politics too. I hadn't realised that Neruda, in his diplomatic capacity, and with extraordinary determination, rescued 2,000 refugees from the Spanish Civil War, and brought them to Chile in the ship, "Winnipeg".
In Santiago you can't go far without being aware of politics. Whether it is the memorial to Salvador Allende and the 39 people who died with him - or the cobbles which have been replaced by the names of those tortured by Pinochet, who ruled by fear.
Whilst the "disappeared" number is only 3,000 in the 17 years of Pinochet's rule - the number in the community traumatised by horrendous acts of torture is vastly greater
Going back a bit, the unlikely leader of the movement which eventually led to independence in 1818 was Bernardo O'Higgins, who is portrayed as an action-hero in memorials commissioned by Pinochet. He was of Irish parentage and spent some time in both Dublin and Richmond!
Interestingly, the two leaders who have abdicated to prevent a civil war were Bernardo O'Higgins and Pinochet! The rather intimidating official government crest for Chile, which I saw on the wall of the Ministry for Justice, reads: "By Reason or by Force" ...... There have been moves to modernise this - but no quorum for change so far.
All over Santiago there are banners in support of Palestine and I discovered that Santiago is home to the biggest community of Palestinians outside Palestine. Mostly catholic.
The young cadets came out on the streets for the changing of the guard at government house. There are many street musicians and, still, "cafes with legs" where the coffee is served by scantily clad ladies!
Apparently all the female soldiers have to wear exactly the same lipstick!
There are some genius developments in the city and some really funny ones. The church of San Francisco is beautiful and, built in 1622, it has survived 15 earthquakes. All because they have a crafty way of building the foundations. The walls are quite normal but the foundations are a deep trench of spherical stones which will allow enough movement to absorb the tremors. It, too, was being restored when we went inside.
It not only has peacocks wandering about - but a huge museum of sacred art and all the library and treasures of Chile's first Nobel prize-winner for poetry, Gabriela Mistral.
Sometimes the signs up in the hotel or on the street make you smile because you can't imagine seeing them in London .... who would build a lift for one person?
We discovered two great "mix-ups" too. The first concerns a commission for a Statue of Liberty in Lima which was supposed to mirror the iconic statue in New York. The idea was to have a fine lady brandishing a flame. The trouble is that the words for "flame" and "llama" are the same (llama) and so ... you guessed it - the statue came back with our hero presenting a beautiful little four-legged llama! For St Lucia, a European foundry mixed up an order for a Mapuche warrior with one for Hiawatha, destined for North America. So the hill of Santa Lucia, in the heart of Santiago, is guarded by a North American Indian!
As well as the treasures in Santa Cruz, Darwin was ever present in Santiago. Gardens, museums, memorabilia from the Beagle's great voyage - and Darwin foxes to appeal to the younger ones. (I found my first pepper tree in the Darwin Garden!)
Our last day ended with a quick trip to the craft market and then some spectacular views from San Cristobal - including a gorgeous sunset, which seems such a great way to wrap up and celebrate what has been the most amazing five and a half weeks.
So many memories and friendships and adventures. So much to be thankful for 😊. My love to you and all fellow travellers - hope you have as much fun as I've been having .....
à bientôt
Clare x
great writing and photos - you have really intrigued me...